Sunday, January 19, 2014

Brining Water to the Village (Part I of the Saga)

I was planning on writing this post once the water project had been finished, I didn’t want to jinx the project but I feel like we have accomplished enough that I can tell you about what’s been going on without bringing down the anger of the Don’t Count Your Chickens Till They Have Hatched Gods (One of Peace Corps’ most powerful supernatural forces along with the Hitchhiking Karma). I joined Peace Corps because I wanted to accomplish something large and tangible. Something that I could see, touch, and easily see what effect I was having on my community. At University of Miami (FL) our school president, Donna Shalala did Peace Corps in the 60’s in Iran. I listened to her talk about her service and said how she had been able to build a library, a school building, and a well. I wanted to accomplish something of that nature. So when I got posted to my site and found out that there was no water and that the previous volunteer had been trying to bring water to our school I knew that I had landed in the right village. 


As I said before in one of my first posts, here in Shamangorwa we get all our water from the river or from a clinic five kilometers away. My counterpart has been incredibly helpful in driving me to the clinic once every two to two and a half weeks to fill up my five twenty five liter jerry cans. So I’ve been living with 125 liters of water for two weeks. This comes out to about 9 liters per day. The average American uses 378 liters per day. Lol! One of the main reasons I use so little is because I don’t have a toilet so we can count out all that water usage. I wash clothes in the river so count that out to. Showering also disappears. For the first three months I bathed in the river but then the crocodiles started reappearing. After that I would bucket bathe, and trying to use as little water as possible as I did it. I was showering about once a week. Even during half marathon training. Thanks mom and dad for all that deodorant! Almost all my water went into drinking and cooking; sacrifices had to be made! Disgusting, I know. 


As soon as I arrived I started grilling Sam, the previous volunteer about how far he had gotten with the water project, what he had accomplished so far, who he had talked to that could potentially help, and how I could move forward with the project. Sam’s plan was to build pipes from a borehole out in the bush, about 2.5km from us, to our water tank at school. The plan was going well, Sam had gotten the grant, the village that owned the borehole agreed to share the water, and digging had already started. But it wasn’t meant to be and our neighboring village changed their minds and decided that they did not want to share their water with us. So the plan stopped. I’m sure Sam was very frustrated and understandably so, he came very close to getting water to the school.

Sam fetching water/hanging out by the river



When I arrived I started talking to the principal, teachers, and Sam about what other avenues we could go through to get water to the village. Three ideas came up. Number one was to find if there was some way through the tribal legal system to get our neighboring village to share the water. I didn’t want to go forward with that plan, sounded like a bit too much potential conflict for a PC volunteer to handle. The second idea was for me to write a grant and get a pump down at the river that could pump water up a pipe to the school. That plan was also scratched because of how expensive that would be. And the problem of drinking dirty river water would persist. Our final plan was the following. 


500 meters away from our school a 50 meter deep well had been dug into the ground then covered up with cement. The idea was that one day the Namibian government would come and set up a borehole system for the well. A borehole is basically a pipe going down the well. A pump then pulls the water up and fills up a water tank which is then connected to a water tap. I was told about this well and it seemed like our best bet. One month into living at my village I spoke to the principal and asked him how we could convince the government to set up our borehole. I still remember this conversation. “Andre, you must go speak to the governor of our region.” Me: “…… The governor? Of Kavango? How am I going to get an audience with him?” Principal : “ I have faith in you, here is the number for his office, call him and see what happens.” So I call but nothing happens, nobody even picks up. But my principal had also given me several other names of people that I could talk to. So I plan my trip to Rundu to lobby for our borehole. The night before I looked at my broken mirror and checked out my facial hair. I had about five days of growth, I considered shaving but I remembered that I would look like a fifteen year old if I shaved. I knew I was going to be nervous for the meetings the next day so I decided to keep the beard and try to present a more confident, adult front. 
Went to the meetings like this.. Jokes! I trimmed it down a bit, this was the beard at its largest


I wake up the next morning, put on my most professional clothes, rub Bruddah Bob’s stomach (he’s my good luck Hawaiian doll), then head out. I reach town around 8:30 and head to the Peace Corps office to collect myself a bit and check over my notes. I hang around until 9:30 then head out to my first target. First rain of the rainy season starts pouring and I jump into a taxi. “Ministry of Education please,” says I, “Yes boss!” says the taxi driver. 
 
Aloha bruddha!

Quick tangent if you will allow me; taxis here are fixed fair, 9 Nam dollars per person for almost any place in town (90 American cents), and they are shared. So it’s very common to jump in when someone else is in the taxi or have somebody else jump in with you. It’s going to be a tough habit to break, I’m already mentally preparing myself to get cussed out in NYC when I try pulling that maneuver. 


Back to the story; I arrive at the Ministry of Education office. Veteran volunteers had already told me to avoid this building, they described it as maze where you can never find what you want. But I had to try. I was looking for the Regional Chief Educational Planner. After stumbling around and walking into many wrong offices I arrive at the correct one. I knock on his door, walk inside and catch him in the middle of a meeting. I step outside, wait for 45 minutes then walk back in when the meeting is over. I start to explain to him our school’s situation and our goal, he stops me a minute into my piece and tells me, write about your situation with what you need, have your principal sign it then come back to me and we can talk. So I walked out, slightly disappointed in the brevity of the meeting but also relieved that I had survived my first encounter with the people that I was trying to work with.
Next stop was the Office of Rural Water Supply. My principal told me that this office had just received funds to install several boreholes in our region and that with luck we could become one of the schools on the list. I go into the office of the Regional Head of the Department of Water Affairs and Forestry. I deliver my speech and he seems sympathetic. He tells me that the borehole will be set up in April 2013. This meeting happened in October 2012. I leave the meeting feeling very good about myself and optimistic about the future. 


The next part of this story happens in February 2013. I speak to my principal and tell him that I want him to be the face of the project. I told him that it would be better for the community to see a local face organizing this effort rather than a foreigner coming and imposing what he thought was best. This also served the purpose of having his weight to throw behind the project whenever I went to meetings. My voice as a volunteer that was going to leave within two years wasn’t strong enough to get a project like this off the ground. I told him that I could be the workhorse for the project as long as he attended meetings with me and actively contributed. He agreed wholeheartedly and we prepared for our next trip to Rundu. 
My principal, Mr. Mayira and I


We first go to the Ministry of Education. We present our case again, this time with a written document and my charismatic principal eloquently elaborating our plight. The Regional Chief tells us that there is nothing that he can do to put pressure on the Office of Rural Water supply. We keep pressing him and he tells us that he can help us with a water tank and its stand. My principal and I didn’t have this in our plans but we looked at each other and telepathically said to each other, “Why not?” So we walk out of the office with a promise from the Ministry of Education that they would be delivering a 10,000 liter water tank and its stand to our school. Our school at the time had two 5,000 liter tanks so it was quite a surprise to us that we were going to be doubling our capacity unexpectedly. 
The larger one on the left is our new water tank from the MoE


At this point I had also written a statement about our water situation and our goal to get a borehole at our school. My principal and I then took these statements and got our School Inspector and the Chief Education Planner to sign them so that we could present them to the Regional Head of the Office of Rural Water Supply. We brought this as a backup plan because we were under the suspicion that the Regional Head had just agreed to the borehole to brush me off and that he never had any intention to build it. Our immediate goal was to try to get as many people on our team as we could to support our project. 


That same day we go into our meeting with the Regional Head of the Office of Rural Water Supply. We reach his office and ask him how we are standing in terms of the borehole construction and if it will still happen in April. Note to other volunteers working on projects like this. Your idea may be accepted and agreed upon when you first suggest it, but that doesn’t mean it’s going to happen. When you follow up what will probably happen is you will receive reassurances that your plan will happen but that there is a delay. The next step will be there are no more funds for your project and that you should just give up. Then after enough pressure and hopefully a stroke of luck you project will move forward. Today was the delaying part of the process. The Regional Head told us that he was going to Windhoek (the capital) to speak to the contractors to see when exactly they could build our borehole but that it certainly wouldn’t be in April anymore.  


We wait until March for our next meeting. My principal comes with me and we head straight to the Office of Rural Water Supply Office. The Regional Head isn’t there so we speak to two people working directly below him. Turns out that our school and borehole hadn’t even been mentioned to them and that our village wasn’t on the list to receive a borehole. Not exactly sure what to say and trying to find a way to get us on the list I began to improvise. I told them that I was sitting on a large grant (a grant I knew I was going to get but didn’t have yet) to build pipes from the borehole to the school. I told them that the grant had an expiration date (it didn’t), by May the money was going to be taken back to go to another project (there was no other project). They told me that I should just build the pipes now and wait for them to come. I replied, we aren’t even on your list now, how do we know that you will ever come to our village? We then kept telling our story, telling them how our kids were suffering from gastrointestinal diseases, how far people had to walk for water, and how there was a well already dug just waiting for a borehole. My principal also stepped in and argued our case. By the end we had gotten the ear of one of the men, Mr. Diego, and he told us he would look into the other villages and see if there was another village whose situation wasn’t as dire as ours. We left feeling dejected but slightly hopeful that there was still a chance for us. 


A month later we find out that our one supporter in the Office of Rural Water Supply, Mr. Diego, had just passed away. I began having serious doubts that this project was ever going to get off the ground.
Late afternoon, May 14, 2013. It was an overcast day and I was in the teacher’s lounge prepping for my classes the next day. My principal walks in and informs us that a third grader has just died from a crocodile attack while she was fetching water from the river. I grab my phone and punch in the Regional Head’s phone number. I reach his secretary and deliver the most passionate speech I’ve ever given in my life. I still can’t believe we lost a child because of foot dragging. We don’t get a call back from the office for the next few days so I go into the principal’s office. I tell him that if we are ever going to get water to our village it is going to be in the light of this tragedy. I tell him that we need to get a few mothers from our community, take them to the office, and have them properly verbalize the need of our community because obviously the message my principle and I were giving just wasn’t cutting it. 


My principal pulls his car up to the school and there are three mothers from the community waiting for him. I look at them and couldn’t help feeling intimidated. These were mothers from the village, they had gone through a life of suffering and disappointments, a life that has never been easy. Only one adjective comes to my mind when describing them, they looked hard. Like granite. Granite that had been taking in years of erosion but was still standing. Women that worked all day, raised upwards of five children, had seen death many times, and desperate to find a way to improve their community and provide a better life for their children. And they looked pissed off.       


We arrived at the office. I decided to keep my mouth shut the entire time. This wasn’t my battle anymore. My principal introduces the mothers and they begin to speak. I still don’t know what they said that day for it was all in the local tongue. But you could feel an undeniable energy in the room. It was as if these three mothers were imposing their will onto the Regional Head. I looked at the face of the leader of the mothers as she was speaking and saw hurt and anger but also clear eyed focus and determination. If I were ever in a fight for my life I would have wanted her on my side. In that moment she seemed implacable. 


The meeting ended, and the Regional Head was stone faced, instead of his usual easy charm he informed us in a grave voice that we would be put on the list to receive a borehole. He told me that the contractor would come by the village next week and that we were supposed to show him the area and he would make measurements for the borehole. 


The contractor did arrive, turns out he actually had family in the village and had heard about the tragedy of the third grader. He told us that they would 100% be coming to the village to build the borehole.   
One of our three tanks for the borehole


A few weeks later a huge truck pulls up to our village. It proceeds to dump seven tons of sand onto the side of the road. Another one comes and this time it dumps seven tons of gravely rock next to the sand. The contractor told me that to make high quality cement they needed a specific kind of sand and the gravely rocks. After those two were deposited on the side of the road the contractor brought two pickup trucks. They would load all the sand and rock onto the truck and drive it 200 meters to the borehole site (The larger truck couldn’t get through because the sand around the road was very soft.) Construction goes on for about two weeks. I spoke quite a bit with the contractor and he seemed like a very intelligent and competent guy. Around this time we had also received the tank and its stand that had been promised from the Ministry of Education. We hired a local man from the village to set up the 10,000 liter tank. My principal recommended him and he seemed like a responsible guy so I okayed him to build our tank. Turns out he was drinking before he would come to work and that he was using very low quality sand to make cement blocks for the feet of the water tank stand. After he finished the job the stand looked fine. But two weeks later you started to notice that the stand was getting a bit crooked. And that the cement blocks that were surrounding the stand’s legs were cracking. This was when the tank was still empty, if there had been water in there I doubt that the stand would have lasted a day. But I had already paid the man and after we noticed how shoddy his construction was he had already disappeared from the village. And so goes development in the 3rd world. 

Construction of the borehole


But on the other hand the constructors of the borehole were doing a great job. Very professional, working hard every day, and you could tell that the overall quality was much higher then what we had attempted with the water tank. The borehole was completed in June 2013. It included the 50 meter hole, which lead to a reservoir which I was told contains enough water to last us 27 years(!). The contractor put up three 10,000 liter tanks, and a double water tap set up on a cement stand. The pump is powered by three solar panels. It’s amazing to have those solar panels since Namibia is sunnier than southern California those panels are always powered and the pump is always running.  Our second part of our plan was to build pipes from the borehole to the water tanks at school, to the water tank at the teacher’s courtyard which would bring running water to our houses, and a tap outside of the school so that the community could fetch water without coming onto school grounds. I approached the contractor and asked him if he and his team had the expertise to also build pipes and connect them to our water tanks. He did and we started making plans. 

Building the water tap



This is where the story stops… for now. The contractor and I, after many negotiations, have agreed on a price to build all the pipes. He was even gracious enough to fix our water tank free of charge. Right now we are organizing when the construction will happen (Will actually be meeting him today). I have the grant and we have settled on the final price, now all that is missing is to get the job done. I won’t write anything more about that since this part of this project is still jinxable. Wish us luck!   

Before the borehole was finished we were already pumping out water for the kids

  



Family visiting!


Wednesday, January 15, 2014

Out From Under the Rock and Stories of Students



Hello again! Please excuse my long absence from the blogging world. My last post was a bit on the depressing side of things so if you think that I might have gone and hidden under a rock and stayed there, don’t worry I didn’t! The screen on my laptop broke so I was out of the writing world for a bit. I tried writing on paper but my hand can’t keep up with my thoughts so I didn’t continue with that. One of my best friends, John Prager, is also working as a volunteer but in China. He is working with fifth graders in a small town and we have been exchanging correspondence through facebook and the great man even took the time and sat down and wrote a letter for me (pen to paper!) and sent it all the way to Namibia. Took about two months but it arrived and it was very nice to see his chicken scratch handwriting again along with some pictures of our old times together. I’ll write to you soon man, promise! I’m just on village time now and these things take a while! Time really is a funny thing the more time you have the less quickly you are able to work. 

But now let me try to catch all of you up on what’s been going on in the last fivish months. After my breakdown I was able to come back to school and get back to work. Looking back, those last few months are under a strange haze in my mind. But I leaned on my other teachers and was able to get back into the swing of things. My grade nines performed admirably during their final exams for English and Geography. 89% of my class passed and I even got one A in English (Congratulations Elfriede Mukoya)! There also some huge improvements from a few kids that I had been trying to spend extra time with. Also, my oldest student, a 29 year old, was able to pass. Here in Namibia once you pass grade 10 you are eligible for the work force particularly the police force and the army. This particular learner has been in and out of school for several reasons but his determination has never wavered. Very responsible man who is trying his best to reach his goal of graduating grade 10 and I am very proud that he has been able to stick through and keep fighting towards his goal.  Teenagers are the same everywhere, and we all know how in high school people get picked on, made fun of, and excluded for the most trivial of reasons. I am sure it has been the same for this student but he has kept persevering and in a way he is one of the best role models for our students. 

One other student that I would like to highlight is Gabriel Anna. She is one of my best grade nines. She is seventeen years old now and she came to our school in the fifth grade. Anna and her entire family is from Angola. Our northern neighbor is a much poorer country than we are (even though it contains the most expensive city in the world, Luanda) and living conditions are even worse than here. Last time I checked the life expectancy there is of 50 years. Her parents decided to send her to school here in Shamangorwa as the educational system here is more developed. Anna arrived with her fraternal twin, Victor, speaking only Portuguese and not knowing a word of English or the local languages Rumanyo/Gciriku and Thimbukushu. One of my fellow teachers spent every day with them teaching English and the local languages. This was in fifth grade. Now in grade nine Anna is one of my most intelligent, charismatic, well spoken, and studious learners. During the year I was giving my students vocabulary quizzes. Four new words per week. For the third trimester I had a vocabulary tournament and Anna made it to the finals with two other students. I was quizzing them on 25 of the 30 words but all three were getting 100 % on the definition of the word and creating an original sentence using the word. So I task them with all 30 words. Again these three wonderful students get 100% and Anna after I return her quiz starts talking to me in front of the class, “You see sir, I do not play! I am a serious girl! I know these things!” One of my proudest and happiest moments of my time here, I’m even getting a bit emotional as I remember it. My two biggest struggles here have been to get the kids to work hard and to become confident. Now here is Anna not only showing to the whole class that she has worked her tail off and that because of that work she is now confident and even bordering on cocky! To a lot of people cockiness is a sign of overconfidence and that there might be a need for the person to tone it down. I’ve always been a fan of a bit of cockiness, confidence is good but I think it is a beautiful thing when a person has complete and utter confidence in themselves and aren’t afraid to show it. One of the other finalists was also a girl and they both started dancing and singing “Girls run the world! Girls run the world!” Wow, another great moment; the community here is very male dominant and women are strictly supposed to have children, raise babies, and take care of their man. Now I have these two girls in my class that are confident and believe themselves to be capable of succeeding in a male dominated country! To make Anna’s story even more unbelievable is that she lives on her own. With four other younger children. Who she alone cares for. No parents, no older brothers or sisters, no aunts, nobody to help Anna, nobody for her to lean on when she needs help. I have no idea how she is doing it. Her family sends her money from Angola and she raises the other children who are in grade 7, 5, and 4. If anybody has ever had odds stacked against her its Anna but she is always in class smiling, asking questions, learning, and most important of all, succeeding. Anna is also one of the prettier girls in our school which terrifies me, teenage pregnancy is so high here and it’s certain that there are men who have intentions with her. I pray that she can make it out of the village and its gravity which pulls too many young men and women into early parenthood, alcoholism, and destitution.      
          
I enjoy looking at statistics so I am going to write down some of the learners who I am most proud of and how they did compared to the class average. I don’t think I will be embarrassing them too much by posting their grades online since they have no chance of using the internet while in school. Also I decided to give you a bit of context on some of these learners. 

Class Average English : 52%. Top performer : 82% Worst Performer 34%
Top Performers: 

Elfreide Mukoya: First Trimester: 77%. Third Trimester: 82%    
Elfriede comes from Walvis Bay which is a well-developed town in the south of Namibia, education there is a lot better than in the Kavango area so her English is light years ahead of most of her class. Intelligent girl who is always writing very interesting essays. I just worry a bit since she is so above the rest of the class here that I think the lack of competition might be causing her to try less then she could. Also I wish our library was functioning so she could read more. She has the potential to become a very strong writer. It was her first year in the village so her adjustment must have been very difficult, especially since she didn’t know the local languages. One of the few that can keep up when I make jokes in class, the rest don’t understand when I make a joke. One of the more popular girls who I am also hoping stays safe during the school holidays.     
Anna and Elfriede

Mukosho Thomas: First Trimester: 78%. Third Trimester: 75%. 
Thomas comes from Rundu and this is his third year in Shamangorwa. Students from town usually have a more developed English and this is definitely the case with Thomas. He is the class clown and if I have been able to understand Namibian high school social life one of the more popular kids in school. One of my favorite students, he is the one that is least scared of talking to me and engaging in conversation. He has a bad habit of trying to imitate my accent but I let it slide, imitation being the most sincere form of flattery and all that. Thomas has high goals, most kids don’t know what they want to do in the future but Thomas already knows that he wants to become a banker. One of the younger kids in class, he is only 16 when the average age is about 18. I would be surprised if he doesn’t pass all of the following grades and graduates as one of the top kids at our school. Although most likely when he passes grade ten he will move to another better school. 

Gabriel Anna: First Trimester: 65% Third Trimester: 73%   
You have already met Anna, she improved quite a bit from term one through to term three. Her writing has especially improved. She was always able to write some of the most sophisticated and original ideas in class but her grammar and word usage weren’t the best but she has improved quite a bit. Also the best public speaker in our class. 

Kaveto Joseph: First Trimester: 68% Third Trimester: 70%

            Joseph snuck up on me. I have 50 kids in my grade nine class and for whatever reason I didn’t notice Joseph during term one. Second and third term though as I really started learning names I began noticing that Joseph was consistently one of the top performers of the class. A bit older, Joseph is eighteen years old, it seems like a few years ago he wasn’t trying as hard in class as he is now which caused him to repeat grades. Best friends with Thomas, these two make a formidable combination of jokes, confidence, and curiosity. Many a times have they asked to listen to hip hop on my Ipod and for me to explain what ‘Pac and Rick Ross are saying. When my family were visiting we met him on the road with his slingshot as he was hunting for birds so he could eat lunch. Very kind and respectful and even though he didn’t really show it I am sure he was excited to meet my family (the kids here are beyond shy towards people that they don’t know). Favorite moment with Joseph: before the geography exam he came up to me and said “Sir I will perform the best in class in the exam, I promise you” Lo and behold he did! That’s the confidence that I like to see in my students!
Joseph being tough 


Mukosho Theresia: First Trimester: 68% Third Trimester 70% 

            Rounding out my top five is Theresia. Very shy girl, I don’t believe I have ever heard her speak in class except for when I ask her a question directly. Seventeen years old, she suffers from an eyesight problem and always sits right in front of the blackboard. But she makes sure she takes notes on everything I say and write down on the board, one of the better prepared students in my class. Also delivered one of the funniest sentences I’ve read from a student in one of her essays. The essay was about teenage pregnancy, she wrote “Lover boys (boyfriends) are not good. They are always wanting to be with girls and eat candy without the wrapper. We girls must stay away from the boys until after we pass grade twelve.” One of the only metaphors I have seen the entire year, she was basically saying that the boys here never want to wear condoms while having sex. Probably not funny in the U.S but here where the reality is different I couldn’t help but laugh at how she described the situation.